You undoubtedly have memories of hurried trips to the supermarket to get a round brick of pie for Thanksgiving, if your parents were anything like mine. It usually came in one of three flavors—pecan, apple, or perhaps pumpkin—and was enclosed in an aluminum and plastic cage with a white sticker label that appeared to say, “No, your parents didn’t cook anything, and, sure, this pie cost precisely $6.99, you’re grateful, now pass the gravy.”
Although those times are still present—and, to be honest, I hope they always do—the business of creating pie has grown somewhat more complex.
Although those times are still present—and, to be honest, I hope they always do—the business of creating pie has grown somewhat more complex. More bakers than ever are taking pleasure in pies where everything from the crust to the filling is created from fresh, organic ingredients without even a whiff of corn syrup, as was the subject of an entire article in The New York Times in 2018.
When I entered Pop Pie Co.’s expertly organized store, I had this in mind. You can tell what to expect from the neon “In Pie We Crust” signs to the carefully piled cardboard boxes that dominate the main wall. Bricks in cages made of plastic are not present here. The shop sells freshly made portable pies, both sweet and savory.
Pop Pie Co. was established by Steven Torres and chef Gan Suebsarakham as an outgrowth of their mini-phenomenon, which initially began at University Heights in San Diego, where lines frequently grew out the door. The comparable idea Pie Not was originally housed in the freshly opened Pop Pie Co. restaurant on 17th Street in Costa Mesa. The Green Hog and Cheese, which features Torres’ mother’s unique tomatillo recipe and heaping stacks of tender, braised pork shoulder in every forkful, is truly a dream. However, the vegetable-forward options are nearly as good as the restaurant’s savory specialty dishes handheld meat pies.
The ricotta and mozzarella cheeses are used sparingly, and the vegetarian mushroom-risotto pizza pot pie is prepared with a good quantity of nicely cooked mushrooms, olives, and onions that are pliable rather than soggy. The crust is robust and buttery, yet flaky too, and is lovingly hand-rolled layer by layer. The meal is surprisingly light, even though the thick, dense pie could make you believe you need a heavy sleep after having it.
Fortunately, the one vegan choice is excellent if you’re interested in trying it. The roasted vegetables and yellow curry pie, which is covered in an almond milk wash, has a plethora of spices and herbs and emits a perfume that will make everyone in your immediate area turn to look at you. Together with soft, smoky sweet potatoes, mushrooms, and squash, cauliflower is roasted. Coconut milk forms the foundation, absorbing the curry flavors and encasing the entire dish in a rich, creamy coating.
If you can manage it, try the key lime pie instead of the great vegan apple crumble pie since it slices like butter and achieves that elusive tart-sweet balance.
Additionally, Pop Pie Co. sells freshly baked pecan and pumpkin pies for people who need to make a stop at the grocery store en route to Thanksgiving dinner.
You’ll pay more than $6.99 for it, but I can assure you that none of your dinner companions will object.
